![]() This one is great for a handful of kiddos to use. you will need a light table to use all of these wonderful tools. Favorite Light Table Tools for Preschool, Pre-K, and Kindergarten Light Table Optionsįirst things first…. This post contains affiliate links which means I earn a tiny commission when you use my links at no cost to you. These are some of my absolute favorite light table tools that I wanted to share with you. At the light table, it’s important to change out materials to keep students engaged and learning. You will find that there are so many different types of media, activities, and manipulatives we can use on light tables. The first shows approximate physical layout, the second shows more a logical view of the connections.These are my favorite light table tools and toys for preschool, pre-k, and kindergarten. My diagrams are kinda clunky, but may help. (If you do this first, the thickness of the frame makes wiring impossible. This puts the fan and fluoro in parallel, so both will come on together with the switch, and if one fails, it won't stop the other. Wire the neutral wire of the mains cable to the other side of the fan and the other side of the fluoro. From the other side of the switch, run a wire back through the switch mounting hole to one side of the mains fan, and from there to one side of the fluoro light. Run the active mains wire out through the mounting hole for the mains switch and wire to the switch. Mount the filter over the right-side hole.īring the mains cable in through the left side frame and fasten with a strain relief clamp. Mount the fan in the left-side hole, and it's shield cage on the outside (I rebated the cage mounting). Get fancy with aluminium foil reflectors if you like, but I didn't think it necessary. Paint the inside white for better light distribution. I smoothed everything, and rounded most edges slightly (the fascia had a slight rounding anyway) EXCEPT for the left side slope. Use a smaller holesaw to cut the hole for the mains switch. It's the fluoro that generates the neat, so having the holes in line with each other just in front of the fluoro draws the air past it and stops the heat spreading toward the user. Use a large holesaw to cut the holes for the fan inlet and exhaust. From this point I used a straightedge to the top corner, and cut the angle and then the straight cut from the lower end. ![]() I measured in 172mm from one end, and 68mm in from the (trimmed) side. Next, mark the 790mm pieces for the angle. If you have unrebated timber, no need to trim - just adjust your other measurements and do your own rebate. ![]() I next ripped 19mm off the top of the back and side members leaving it 220mm high - it already had a rebate, so I was just trimming down to give a smaller lip at the back. (see hand rest in third photo, and leftside retainer in first photo that is held on with wingnuts) I then cut two strips 10mm wide from the full-length remainder. I first ripped off a strip 80mm wide, then trimmed it to 690 long. The cross-member is also 730mm, but straight-cut. ![]() The main frame has mitred corners - I cut 2 x 790 and 2 x 730 with mitres Glasscutter (if not cut to size previously) ![]() Router (or alternate - maybe a circular saw and extra effort) Mounting screws for mains switch (and cooling fan if being used) usually come with it Tools Strain relief and mounting screws for cabling Optional 4 small corner brackets with fixing screws Mesh/filter for air intake if using a fan - you can improvise with a 6" square of flyscreen and similar piece of non-woven material - it's not critical. Mine came with a protective wire screen and fixing screws. To be sure it remained cool in use, I also added a cooling fan, but this is optional. Mine was 6mm laminated (for safety)Ī fluorescent tube to fit comfortably inside - I used a twin tube (2 x 20W) 600mm unit I needed 2 x 790mm, 3 x 730mm (well, 2 x 730 and 1 x 690, but the third one was trimmed to provide the retaining bar and hand rest)Ī base panel - I used 6mm plywood, 710mm x 770mmįrosted glass topsheet - choose your thickness according to the area you want - bigger area means you need thicker glass. We had about 4m left over from a job on the house. I used 239x30 (dressed size) oregon fascia board, that already had a nice rebate just near each edge (where the eave lining would normally slot in) to save some work. (I kinda inherited a preference for super-strong from my Dad - trying to learn that sometimes lighter is better :-) ) Timber for framing - I went kinda heavy-duty, so I could later add legs and still have a solid table, but if you will only ever sit this on a regular table, you can save a lot of weight. ![]()
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